Panorama of the past

I was doing some research on the Compagnie des Wagons-Lits this week, the outfit best known for operating the Orient Express and other luxury train services. Less well known is that in 1894 the directors set up a subsidiary, the Compagnie Internationale des Grands Hotels, through which they began operating luxury hotels around the world. In Egypt, they took up the lease on what had been one of Ismail’s numerous palaces until it had been seized following his abdication in 1879. The CIGH had the former khedivial residence remodeled, refitted and opened to paying guests in October 1894 as the Gezira Palace Hotel—or Gheezireh Palace Hotel, as in those days the more letters in a word the more authentically foreign it was thought to be.

Gezira Palace

The image above is part of a CIGH advertising poster and it is one of the most unique and beguiling views of Cairo I’ve ever seen. It must date from the very last years of the 19th century, soon after the CIGH acquired the Palace, which is at the centre of the panorama. If you don’t yet recognize it, the Gezira Palace would eventually – after a long spell as a private home – become the Cairo Marriott, and the island is what’s now Zamalek. The bridge in picture is Qasr el-Nil. It’s as though the artist is hovering above the east side of 26th of July Bridge.


Behind the U-shaped building are the extensive khedivial gardens with twin lakes overlooked by the Kiosque, a large free-standing pavilion that was originally used as guest accommodation, but later became function rooms and a casino. South of the ornamental gardens, the Khedive’s private park has already became a sports and recreation ground, for polo and horse riding – it’s now the Gezira Club. Missing is the 6th October flyover that now cuts across its middle. Beyond, the west bank is largely desert, apart from the thread of greenery that indicates the road running straight to the Pyramids on the horizon.


I love the detail, like the dahabiya just setting off from the moorings at Bulaq bound for Upper Egypt, and the lions at the end of the bridge. So many feluccas too – it looks more like Aswan than Cairo.


Filed under Lost Egypt, Memorabilia

2 Responses to Panorama of the past

  1. Lajos Nemeth-Boka

    Hello, I just couldnt find a better way to ask if you have some good photomaterial of New Khedivial Hotel, which was about a corner away from Sheapheard’s? I am a hungarian and traced some of our travellers already in Egypt, I know our famous desert explorer, Laszlo Almasy used Khedivial quite frequently. Any infos would be appreciated a lot!
    Congr. for your book, I bought at the first week when it was published, a firm favourite along with Vintage Egypt.
    Thanks, cheers, Lajos

    • AndrewH

      Hi Lajos
      Unfortunately I have no images of the New Khedivial in Cairo, only the hotel of that name in Alexandria. I do however have images of the Victoria, which is the New Khedivial but renamed. Drop me an email at andrewhumphreys [at] and I’ll send you what I have.

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